Care & Use

Good materials reward a little attention. None of this is fussy — mostly it is knowing what a fabric or a finish likes, and then staying out of its way. Below is how we care for the pieces we make and keep, so they soften, patina, and settle in rather than wear out. As ever, follow any care label that ships with your piece; the notes here are our general guidance.

Linen

Linen only gets better with washing — it softens, and its color mellows. Machine wash cool or warm on a gentle cycle with a mild detergent, and skip the fabric softener; it coats the fibers and dulls the lived-in hand you are after. Tumble dry low and pull pieces out slightly damp to smooth the wrinkles, or line dry for a more relaxed drape. Iron on medium while still a little damp if you like it crisp. Wash darks and naturals separately the first few times. The odd loose slub is the weave, not a flaw.

Stoneware & Reactive Glazes

Reactive glazes are alive in the kiln, which is why no two of our plates or bowls match exactly — the pooling, speckle, and variation are the point, not a defect. Our stoneware is dishwasher- and oven-safe, though hand washing keeps the glaze looking its best over the long run. Let a hot piece come down to room temperature before it meets cold water, since sudden swings are what crack ceramics. Skip the microwave for anything with a metallic detail. A soft scrub and warm water handle almost everything.

Candle Care

The first burn sets the rest. Let the wax melt all the way to the edges of the vessel — usually two to three hours — so it does not tunnel and waste itself. Trim the cotton wick to about a quarter inch before every light; it burns cleaner and steadier that way. Keep individual burns under four hours, and never leave a lit candle unattended or near anything that catches. Stop burning once about a half inch of wax remains, to protect the vessel. When it is spent, warm out the last of the wax and keep the ceramic for pens or matches.

Heritage Wool

Wool is more resilient than it gets credit for, and it likes to be left alone. Air it out rather than washing it often — a day over a rail or a banister refreshes most things. Spot-clean spills promptly with cool water and a little wool-safe soap, blotting rather than rubbing. When a full wash is due, hand wash cool or use the wool cycle, never wring, and dry flat away from direct heat or sun. Store it clean and folded with a cedar block nearby; moths are drawn to soil, not to the wool itself.

Turkish Cotton Towels

Turkish cotton starts out smooth and grows more absorbent and plush with each wash, so give it a few cycles to come into its own. Wash warm with a mild detergent, and go easy on the softener — it coats the loops and works against the absorbency. Tumble dry low or line dry; over-drying is what makes any towel stiff. Wash new pieces before first use to set the weave, and shake them out before hanging so the waffle opens up. A snagged loop can be snipped flush, never pulled.

Wood & Cutting Boards

Wood wants to stay dry and lightly fed. Hand wash boards and turned pieces with warm water and a little soap, then towel them dry and stand them up to finish — never leave them soaking or send them through the dishwasher, which warps and splits the grain. Every few weeks, or whenever the surface looks thirsty, rub in food-safe mineral oil or a board cream and let it sit overnight. That is what keeps acacia and oak from drying out and cracking. A halved lemon and coarse salt lift stains and freshen a board between oilings.